Five days between the black of Etna and the golden stone of Sicilian Baroque, with two hotels of note, a Michelin star at the foot of the volcano, and a fishing village that looks like it's painted blue.
This tour leisurely connects eastern and southeastern Sicily: Catania as a gateway, the coast between Riposto and Taormina, and the descent to the Baroque towns of Ortigia and Noto, all the way to Marzamemi, at the southern tip of the island. Two accommodations set the pace — Zash, with a Michelin star at the foot of Etna, and Villa Favorita, an 18th-century villa surrounded by orange groves in the heart of Val di Noto — and in between, a fish market, a Greek theater, terraces with views, and a fishing village that still sells tuna as it did five hundred years ago.
Catania — market, Via Etnea, and first granita
La Pescheria
Catania's fish market, in Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto, just behind Piazza del Duomo. Open Monday to Saturday mornings, it's pure Sicilian theater: shouting, ice, whole swordfish on the counter, and fruit and cheese stalls all around. Go early, before 10 am, to see it in full swing.
Market Lunch
Any of the trattorias around La Pescheria serve what has just been bought a few meters away: pasta with sea urchins, grilled swordfish, or a simple red shrimp crudo. No need to reserve or search extensively — the fish of the day is the menu.
Via Etnea and Villa Bellini
The three kilometers of Via Etnea concentrate Catania's Baroque center, with the Duomo, the black lava palaces, and traditional shops. The walk ends at Villa Bellini, the city's historic park, with views of Etna when the day is clear.
Granita with brioche
Before leaving Catania, a mandatory stop at Pasticceria Savia or Caffè Savia, next to Villa Bellini, for granita with brioche — almond, pistachio, or lemon — which in Sicily replaces breakfast but works just as well in the mid-afternoon.
Etna and Riposto — Zash and a Michelin star
Etna Slope
Before check-in, a short climb to the Crateri Silvestri or to one of the Etna DOC wineries in Milo or Passopisciaro to get a close look at the landscape of black lava and young vines that defines this side of the island. There's no need to reach the summit to understand why the wine from here has become so fashionable.
Zash Country Boutique Hotel & Spa
In Archi-Riposto, halfway between Catania and Taormina, Zash occupies an old palmento — the traditional building where grapes were pressed — surrounded by an orange grove with sea views on one side and Etna on the other. Eight contemporary design rooms, a spa, and a lounge bar in the old cellar.
Ristorante Zash, one Michelin star
The hotel restaurant, led by chef Giuseppe Raciti since 2014 and holding a Michelin star since 2019, serves regional cuisine — technical but focused on local produce — in a space built within the old palmento. There's a seafood menu (5 courses), a land menu (5 courses), and signature tasting menus of 6 to 8 courses.
Taormina — Greek theater and the best granita in eastern Sicily
Teatro Antico
The symbol of Taormina: a Greek-origin theater from the 3rd century B.C., expanded by the Romans, with the cavea excavated into the hillside and the Ionian Sea and Etna as a backdrop. It is the second-largest Greek theater in Italy, after Syracuse, and is worth a visit just for the views, even without knowing its history.
La Ostería da Rita
Five minutes from the Greek Theater, this restaurant has been operating since 1991 and remains the benchmark for traditional Sicilian cuisine in Taormina: generous portions, fair prices, and no concessions to the postcard tourism that surrounds the city.
Bam Bar
A small, colorful spot five minutes from the theater, known for making probably the best granita in Taormina. After a day of walking along Corso Umberto, it's the mandatory stop before returning to Riposto or extending the afternoon through the narrow streets of the old town.
Ortigia — and transfer to Noto
The Old Town of Ortigia
The historic island of Syracuse, a World Heritage Site, can be explored on foot in a couple of hours: the Duomo built on a Greek temple, the walk along Fonte Aretusa, and the narrow streets that suddenly open to the sea. It is the southernmost point of the route before turning towards Noto.
Mercato di Ortigia and Caseificio Borderi
The Ortigia market, active since the 80s along Via Emmanuele De Benedictis, resembles a souk: fish, spices, artisan cheeses. At Caseificio Borderi, they prepare impromptu sandwiches with what's on the counter — a quick, unhurried stop that perfectly replaces a full meal.
Villa Favorita, in Noto
An 18th-century Sicilian villa, a former summer residence of a noble family that still manages it today, in the heart of the Noto Valley and surrounded by olive and orange groves. Pool lined with almond trees, garden with centennial palm trees, and a restaurant that works with the estate's own organic garden — they even offer cooking and painting classes.
Noto and Marzamemi — Baroque, rooftop, and a fishing village
The Baroque center of Noto
Rebuilt in golden limestone after the 1693 earthquake, Noto is the most complete example of Sicilian Baroque: the Cathedral of San Nicolò, Palazzo Nicolaci, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with its carved balconies, can be explored on a leisurely morning without needing a car.
Ristorante Manna or Jonica Pesce Puglisi
Ristorante Manna is considered one of the best in Noto for its overall experience — ambiance, service, wine list, and cuisine. Jonica Pesce Puglisi, set up inside an old fish market, offers a more informal alternative completely focused on fresh fish and seafood of the day.
Terrazza Gagliardi
The rooftop of the Gagliardi Boutique Hotel, an old noble palace from the late 19th century, directly overlooks the Cathedral dome and, beyond, the vineyards of Val di Noto and the Ionian Sea. The gastronomic proposal plays with spices and aromatic herbs from the island, with boards of PDO cheeses from Ragusa and artisan cured meats to accompany aperitifs.
Marzamemi, coastal closing
Twenty minutes from Noto, Marzamemi is an old fishing village built around its 16th-century Tonnara, now the setting for Piazza Regina Margherita, with warm-toned facades and restaurants with terraces. Dining here, with tables practically on the square, is the natural way to end the trip — the village thrives on tuna and red shrimp, so it's advisable to order precisely that.
If Zash or Villa Favorita are fully booked
- Monaci delle Terre Nere (Zafferana Etnea) — a 17th-century farmhouse among lava vineyards, on the slopes of Etna, with a pool and a restaurant featuring local produce.
- San Domenico Palace, Taormina — a former 15th-century convent converted into a luxury hotel, with direct views of the sea and Etna from the historic center of Taormina.
- Seven Rooms Village (Noto) — a contemporary design option within the historic walls of Noto, smaller and more informal than Villa Favorita.
Tip
Ristorante Zash and the rooftop in Noto fill up weeks in advance during high season. Book both as soon as you have dates, and save Marzamemi for last: it's the kind of place that's hard to leave at the scheduled time.
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