There's a San Sebastián that only exists in September: red carpets running through the Old Town, rowing boats cutting through the water of La Concha at dawn, and terraces where summer says a slow goodbye. If you're looking for a getaway that combines the sea, great food and a touch of glamour without the August crowds, this is the month.
Summer in San Sebastián stretches well into September: the Bay of Biscay reaches its warmest temperature of the year, the evenings are still long and bright, and the city moves to a different rhythm from July and August. Hotel prices drop compared with peak season, and it's easier to get a table at the Michelin-starred restaurants.
On top of that, the calendar turns every stroll into an event: the film world takes over the city, the bay fills with traditional rowing boats competing for the most prestigious flag in Basque rowing, and the scent of new cider and freshly harvested txakoli starts drifting into the bars of the Old Town.
The Film Festival: the city dresses up
One of the oldest and most prestigious film festivals in Europe takes over the Kursaal and the Boulevard in the second half of September.
The Donostia Award and the red carpet
International stars walk the Kursaal red carpet, the Donostia Award for lifetime achievement is presented, and the cinemas in the centre screen the best of auteur cinema and the season's most anticipated releases, day and night.
You don't need a ticket to soak up the atmosphere: just stroll along the Boulevard or the bay at sunset, when photographers and onlookers wait for a famous face to arrive.
The Bandera de La Concha
The most important traditional rowing regatta in the Basque calendar is held in the bay over two consecutive Sundays in September.
When the sea becomes the best seat in the house
It's a century-old tradition that's as much a part of San Sebastián's DNA as pintxos or surfing. Dozens of men's and women's crews row flat out in front of thousands of people packing the seafront and Monte Urgull so as not to miss a single metre of the race.
Where to eat
From the pintxo bars of the Old Town to a Michelin-starred table.
Pintxos in the Old Town
Gildas, txangurro (spider crab), freshly made Spanish omelette: Calle Fermín Calbetón and Calle 31 de Agosto are home to some of the city's best-loved bars.
Gros and La Bretxa Market
Creative pintxos and cocktails near Zurriola beach, with a morning stop at the market for fresh produce, cheeses and tinned seafood.
Michelin-starred fine dining
San Sebastián is home to several of Spain's most acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants, ranging from avant-garde cuisine to traditional Basque grills, many with sea views.
Where to stay
Three ways to stay in Donostia, depending on the kind of getaway.
Classic luxury by the bay
Grand hotels facing La Concha, with spas and direct sea views: the option for anyone looking to celebrate in style.
Boutique with character
Small hotels in areas such as Gros or El Antiguo, a short walk from the beach, for those who prefer something more intimate.
Overlooking La Concha
Rooms with balconies on the La Concha promenade, with the bay as your backdrop from first thing in the morning.
Day 1: the sea, the old town and film
Old Town and Monte Urgull
A stroll through the old town and a climb up Monte Urgull to see the bay from above.
Pintxo crawl
Calle Fermín Calbetón and Calle 31 de Agosto, the area with the highest concentration of bars in the city.
La Concha and the Peine del Viento
La Concha beach and a walk to Chillida's Peine del Viento (Comb of the Wind) sculptures, with the sunset as a backdrop.
Dinner with views of the Kursaal
Dinner near the auditorium and a walk along the Boulevard to soak up the Festival atmosphere.
Day 2: heights, a market and a delicious farewell
Funicular up Monte Igueldo
The best panoramic views of the bay, a short ride away on a historic funicular.
La Bretxa Market and Gros
A stop for fresh produce and lunch in Gros, a more local, less touristy neighbourhood.
Zurriola or a spa session
The city's surf beach if you're after some activity, or a spa for a relaxing finish.
Farewell dinner
End the trip at one of the city's great temples of food.
Nearby day trips
San Sebastián is also an excellent base for discovering the rest of the Basque coast.
Getaria
Birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, famous for its txakoli and its seafront fish grills.
Zarautz
The longest beach in the Basque Country and a surfing mecca, perfect for a relaxed afternoon.
Hondarribia
A historic old town of colourful houses on the French border, ideal for lunch overlooking the Bidasoa river.
Pasaia
A charming fishing village where Victor Hugo stayed and wrote, and a starting point for coastal hiking routes.
Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz
To add a French touch to your getaway, a short drive along the coast.
Frequently asked questions
Is the weather good in San Sebastián in September?
Yes: it's one of the most settled months of the year, with mild temperatures, the sea at its warmest and less chance of rain than in spring or late autumn.
How far ahead should I book accommodation and restaurants?
We recommend booking several weeks ahead, and even earlier if your trip coincides with the Film Festival or the Bandera de La Concha, when demand soars.
Is it a good destination for a romantic getaway?
Absolutely: the combination of world-class food, seaside walks and a unique cultural atmosphere in September makes it a favourite for couples looking for something different from the usual beach break.
